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|Here's a write up taken from the VWVortex that
explains sway bar function quite spendidly. All credits go
to Mr. Ian ("daemon42" on VWVortex), who had done one of
the nicest write-ups I have ever read about sway bars.
Here it is:
without a sway bar when the car corners the weight of
the chassis shifts toward the outside of the turn
compressing the springs on that side. The springs on the
inside generally extend a little, or do nothing.
Relative to the chassis itself, it appears that the
outside suspension compresses and the inside doesn't.
A sway bar couples the suspensions on each side to each other, *AND* relative to the chassis. If you could put the car up on a lift and actually compress the suspension on one side by hand, then a sway bar makes the compression of one side also try to compress the suspension on the other. Okay... it's still not really obvious why that's useful. So I'll say the same thing a different way.
A sway bar effectively increases the spring rate on whichever side is compressed the MOST. If the sway bar were absolutely solid with no twist so there's a 100% coupling between each side, then an attempt to compress one spring actually becomes an attempt to compress both springs. It doubles the spring rate. If the bar has some twist, then it may only increase the spring rate by say 50% on whichever side is compressed the most.
So you're driving down the road and you go over a bump that goes across the entire lane. The sway bar does nothing. Both sides compress normally. You go around a corner and the chassis starts to lean and compress the outside suspension and now it's as though you have a bigger spring out there, so the car remains more level. That's the good part. Here's the bad part. You hit a bump with only one side, and it behaves the same way, as though you have a stiffer spring, so you feel uneven bumps more. You feel it crossing anything diagonally as well, such as coming into or out of a parking lot or driveway curb.
That's all the simple "How does a sway bar work?" part. The real tricky one is... "What does a sway bar do?"
|1. We know it keeps
the car more level. So what? Limiting the lean of the
body is good because it means that when you take a quick
set into a turn, that the body isn't still moving
sideways after the tires are at their limits. Otherwise
you turn in quickly, the tires grip, then the body
finally finishes leaning, when it stops, the tires lose
grip. This is especially noticeable in most cars in the
slalom where you lean one way then the other and so
2. It limits camber changes. The camber is the angle that the tire leans in or out at the top relative to the chassis of the car. The camber directly impacts the angle at which the tire cross section meets the road and thus controls lateral grip. As the suspension compresses the camber angle generally changes relative to the chassis. With a normal McPherson strut that hasn't been lowered, the camber goes from positive to more negative as the lower A arm swings out straight, and then back to positive as it swings up. That swing up into positive camber is BAD. At that point the chassis is already leaned over so the tire may be starting to roll onto its sidewall. Changing the camber even more positive is just nasty. A big sway bar will prevent the body roll in the first place, and prevent the suspension compression on the outside which causes the positive camber change relative to the chassis.
Transfer lateral grip from one end of the car to the
other. This one is a real trick to understand, but
racers exploit this EVERY time they go on the track.
Their spring rates are often so high, the cars so low,
and their suspension travel so little, that the whole
camber and body lean problem is already a non-issue. The
car doesn't lean much with 500 lb springs. They use
their bars to change the balance of the car. Here are
the simple rules first. A big bar on the front increases
rear lateral and motive traction. A big bar on the rear
increases front lateral and motive traction. The
applications: If the car is understeering (pushing),
decrease front bar size or increase rear bar size. This
increases front lateral grip and decreases rear lateral
grip giving the car a more neutral to oversteer feel.
Reverse the process for too much oversteer. I mentioned
motive grip. That's the neat one. Let's say your RWD car
is handling okay. But every time you get into a corner
hard and get on the gas the rear inside tire breaks
loose and spins. You can't accelerate out of the turn.
You can go around the turn quite quickly, but you can't
accelerate out, and the guy with traction hooks up and
passes you halfway down the next straight because he
came out of the turn going 3-4mph faster. The reason
you're losing the traction at the inside rear is usually
because the rear bar is too big. As the rear outside
suspension compresses, it's actually causing the rear
inside suspension to compress as well (because the bar
couples the sides... remember where we started). That
decreases the weight on the rear inside tire. Decrease
the size of the rear bar. That decouples the sides a
bit, let's the inside tire press down on the road more,
and thus not spin when you're on the gas.
| Here's where it gets really tricky: If
decreasing the size of the rear bar doesn't help enough,
the next thing you do is increase the size of the front
bar. When the outside front compresses in a corner, it
causes the inside front to compress and may actually
lift that tire completely off the ground. The car is now
sitting on 3 tires and guess where the weight that was
on the inside front goes? Outside front? Some of it. The
rest goes to the inside rear where we need more grip.
The total weight of the car hasn't changed. It's just
been redistributed, and a sway bar at one end, actually
transferred weight to the other end of the car. The
photo at the left shows it in action on a RWD car. See
the inside front tire off the ground? That translates
into more motive grip at the rear, and thus more
acceleration. Believe me, that car rockets out of
| All of this trickery applies to a FWD car
too. Since the front tires share all of the motive AND
most of lateral traction (because most of the weight is
in front), all the things that happen with big bars at
either end are even more extreme. A big front bar
stabilizes the body lean more but also creates a lot
more understeer, and may make the inside front tire spin
madly under power in a corner. A big rear bar can't give
you back much lateral grip up front, but it can give you
back some motive traction. Basically letting you
accelerate out of the turn, even when the front end is
sliding pretty badly. Here's a big rear bar in action on
a FWD car.
So that's it. How they work and what they do.
Scott's Comments: The write-up above, although taken from a forum dominated by FWD cars, explains more about applying sway bars to RWD cars. In FWD cars, the key is to reduce understeer and increase motive traction. Many popular suspension kits come with huge front AND rear sway bars. The car stays level and the ride is tight. Turn-in, or the car's ability to resist understeer, is improved. But the inside front wheel will still spin while accelerating out of a turn unless you've invested big bucks into a torque-biasing differential. Leaving the front bar stock and increasing only the rear bar allows the front wheels to articulate normally. As written above, the weight that's not sitting on the suspended inside rear wheel is now being applied to the inside front wheel, which is not being unloaded by a huge front bar and is now able to extend to the ground for more traction. Make sense?
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